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I want a goat. This happens every year after the Fair, but lately,
now that I’ve made a couple of simple, creamy-sweet fresh
cheeses at home, this whole goat thing has become a minor obsession.
Fresh cheese, after all, is easy to make; cheese is made from milk;
and while milk can be had from all kinds of animals, from buffaloes
to reindeer to zebras (probably even seal milk if you could figure
out how to get it) goats are smaller than cows and cuter than sheep.
You can probably guess where this is leading. She’d keep the
lawn mowed, of course. The milking part might be challenging at
first, but we’d work that out. Goats are smart—couldn’t
she be trained to do it herself? Would the neighbors even notice
a goat?
After years on the dietary blacklist, castigated as a fat-laden
bacterial playground, cheese is trendy again, but a whole class
of cheeses is being overlooked. On the one hand you have your important
ripened cheeses, plucked from caves and baskets, some frankly stinking;
most with imposing foreign names in a bewildering complex of classifications
by region and terroir, milks and rinds and molds and cures. Aged
cheeses, like serious wines, can make the uninitiated feel both
foolish and undeserving.
Fresh cheese is a completely different experience. This is cheese
in its dewy youth, still sweetly unaffected by the travails of time,
experience and bacteria. Fresh cheeses are creamy and mild-flavored,
meant to be savored within hours or days of their creation. Common
fresh cheeses include tender mozzarella, buttery mascarpone, elegant
ricotta and fromage blanc, Neufchatel, crumbly queso fresco, quark,
true cream cheese, and farmers’ cheese. With some exceptions,
notably mascarpone, most fresh cheeses are relatively low in fat.
Every cheese, even the most pretentious, begins life as a fresh
cheese of some kind. If cheese is truly "milk’s leap
to immortality," as the saying goes, fresh cheese is that first
baby step—mere dainty curds and whey, often only hours old
when consumed. The very best fresh cheeses will still have a haunting
savor of meadow grasses and flowers. Tasting these, one understands
more clearly the motives of the spider, but not why Little Miss
Muffet gave up so easily.
Making curds and whey is the first step in the more complicated
process of making a hard cheese. Fresh milk is mostly water combined
with rather small amounts of protein, fat and trace minerals and
vitamins. When the chemical conditions for cheese making are right,
the temperature is just so, the acid balance is correct, and the
right bacteria are present--the proteins and fat in the milk can
be coaxed to coagulate, or clump together to form curds, while the
water in the milk separates out into a clear fluid called whey.
(We’ve all made something that looks like this in the past,
probably without meaning to; or found it lurking in the back of
the refrigerator.) The curdled mass is poured into a cloth-lined
sieve or mold and allowed to drain for the length of time needed
to gain the desired consistency, from a few minutes to several hours,
depending on the type. Et voila! A fresh cheese.
If the cheesemaker is going to continue on to make a ripened cheese,
the curds will be pressed and molded, then carefully cured at a
controlled level of temperature and humidity for weeks or months—an
art as well as an ancient science.
Remember--fresh cheese is all about freshness. Once you try making
a simple fromage blanc recipe, store-bought ricotta will never be
acceptable again. Bob Stonebrook, owner of The Aniata Cheese Company
takes delivery of his fresh cheese twice weekly. Tasting a sample
on a recent afternoon, he points out that even two days after it
is made, the texture and taste of the Gioia ( a Los Angeles mozzarella
maker) fresh mozzarella has already begun to change. It is still
wonderful, just not as freshly exquisite as when it is first made.
Aniata also carries Gioia’s delightful true ricotta cheese,
made from the whey left over from the mozzarella process and sold
when a few hours old, and a rarely seen treat known as burrata-
tender fresh mozzarella around a creamy center. Needless to say,
burrata sells out almost immediately. Stonebrook is looking forward
to offering a true mozzarella di buffalo, made by a gentleman in
Gardena who has his very own herd of water buffalo. Why am I so
worried what the neighbors will think about one goat?
Buying, Use and Storage
For the most part, fresh cheeses are milk-sweet with a mild flavor
that fairly begs to be enhanced with herbs or honey or fruit. Fresh
goat cheeses will have a delicate, inoffensive air of goatiness
and are light enough to be eaten as a dessert. The soft texture
of fresh cheeses make perfect base for spreads and dips or canapés,
or baking into tarts and cheesecakes.
If you are buying fresh cheeses, it’s worth it to seek out
quality brands at specialty stores, since these will have fewer
additives and preservatives. Buy small quantities and be sure to
check the expiration date on the package. Reseal tightly, since
cheese quickly picks up off smells, and use within a day or so of
opening.
Types of Fresh Cheeses
Ricotta- An Italian standard in recipes like lasagna, manicotti,
a sweet cheese cake or cassata. Ricotta is made from the whey left
after other cheeses are made, combined with a little whole milk.
It looks like a fine-grained cottage cheese; it is faintly sweet.
Mascarpone: A triple-cream Italian cheese, made
from cow’s milk. Mascarpone is a melt-in your mouth buttery
treat, ridiculously high in fat, with a texture like that of sour
cream. Mascarpone is mostly used in desserts such as tiramisu, cannoli
and gelatos.
Cream Cheese and Neufchatel: Spreadable, very
creamy cow’s milk cheeses with a high percentage of butterfat;
Neufchatel having slightly less. Most commercial cream cheese has
many additives. Freshly made cream cheese is an unforgettable treat.
Farmer’s Cheese, Pot Cheese, Queso Blanco, Queso
Fresco, or Fromage Blanc: The very simplest of cheeses
(see the recipe below) whose final use depends on how much moisture
is pressed out of the curds before it is used. Farmer’s cheese
tends to be dry and crumbly; fromage blanc and pot cheese are quite
moist, while the Mexican versions (blanco and fresco) are lightly
salted.
Cottage Cheese: Simple curds, briefly drained
and then mixed with a little heavy cream. Made to be eaten fresh,
with honey, fruit or other flavorings.
Quark: A tangy fresh cheese made from buttermilk,
which can be used as a sour cream substitute.
Labna: The name given to heavy, whole milk yogurt which has been
drained of excess liquid until it forms a soft, spreadable rich
consistency. Labna can be spread on a dish, sprinkled with herbs
and fruity olive oil and eaten like a dip. In the Middle East it
is frequently flavored with herbs, rolled into small balls and preserved
in olive oil, or dried and crumbled into food.
Mozzarella: Traditional Mozzarella is a water
buffalo cheese, though the vast majority today is made of cow’s
milk. Its distinct rubbery, stringy character comes from the cheese-making
process, when the curds are stretched and folded back upon themselves
in hot water until they form long strands. The fresh cheese is formed
into balls of various sizes and held in light brine. Fresh mozzarella
is as delicate and melting as the commercial versions are rubbery
and tough.
Simple Homeade Cheese
It may be true that we are the most domestically challenged culture
since the first fish flopped onto land and thought about redecorating,
but fresh cheese is so easy to make that I would encourage anyone
to try it, regardless of skill level. The first time I made fresh
cheese, I didn’t even have to leave the house for ingredients,
and it took less than a half hour to make. The result was a lovely,
creamy mass which could be called ricotta, queso blanco or fromage
blanc; the freshness of the cheese gives a certain delicacy and
fresh taste to the recipes. Fresh cheese is really no cheaper than
store-bought, but the finished product is infinitely superior.
The process is a breeze. All you need are a few lengths of cheesecloth,
an instant-read probe-type thermometer (preferably Taylor, which
is adjustable,) a bowl and colander, and a heavy-bottomed 6-quart
pot.
BASIC FRESH CHEESE
(Pot Cheese, Fromage Blanc or Queso Blanco)
This is the simplest cheese ever. Use in the Sweet Crepes with
Fromage Blanc, or the Eggplant Cannelloni, or savor a bit with fresh
fruit and a drizzle of honey. Makes 3 cups.
1 gallon whole milk
¼ cup white vinegar
Heat the milk over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until
it reaches 180 degrees (or until bubbles appear around the edges
of the milk and it seems on the verge of boiling; but do not boil.)
Remove from heat and stir while you add the white vinegar. Stir
occasionally for the next 20 minutes. Set the sieve over a large
bowl. Unfold the cheesecloth and cut into squares large enough to
hang over the edges of the sieve; line the sieve with at least four
single layers of cheesecloth.
arefully pour the curds and whey from the pot into the sieve and
allow to drain for 30 minutes. Fold the inner layers of cheesecloth
over the curd then tie the four corners of the outer layer together,
and suspend the cheese from a dowel or spoon handle so it can drip
freely. Chill. The cheese is ready when it stops dripping (about
5 hours) but the flavor improves the next day. ( I do not add any
salt at this point.) Use in any recipe calling for ricotta, queso
blanco, pot cheese or fromage blanc. The nutritious whey can be
used in soups.
To make a dry, crumbly farmer’s cheese, line a perforated
mold with a layer of cheesecloth. Pack the mold with the drained
curds and press with a ‘follower’ and a two-pound weight.
OVERNIGHT FRESH GOAT CHEESE
Because no culture is added, this soft cheese has a very delicate
goat flavor. Use in Goat Cheese Tart or Herbed Spread. Goat milk
is available at Henry’s or Whole Foods. Makes about 2 cups
(16 ounces.)
2 quarts goat milk
2 cups buttermilk
3/8 teaspoon liquid rennet* mixed with 2 tablespoons
cold water
In a large stainless steel pan, with a heavy bottom or on a simmer
pad, combine the goat’s milk and buttermilk. Add the diluted
rennet, and combine thoroughly with a whisk. Heat over medium-low
heat without stirring until an instant-read thermometer reads exactly
180 degrees; do not break up the large curd. Remove from heat and
cover with a clean towel. Let stand overnight. Line a sieve or colander
with several layers of cheesecloth and carefully pour the curds
into the sieve. Fold the cheesecloth over the top and let drain
in the refrigerator for several hours, or overnight.
Cheesemaking Resources
Fresh cheeses are remarkably undemanding, quick and simple to
make at home. You cannot use ultra-pasteurized milk, but otherwise
supermarket milk performs very well. Some cheesemakers swear by
reconstituted dry milk.
You can use common kitchen equipment for cheese making, but some
supplies are quite specialized. Vegetable rennet
can be purchased at Whole Foods, La Jolla, but it doesn’t
work as reliably as animal rennet. Best source
for animal rennet and real cheesecloth is New England Cheesemaking
Supply Company at (413)628-3808 or on-line at www.cheesemaking.com.
If you decide to get really serious, Ricki Carroll, the owner of
New England Cheesemaking Supply has written an excellent book called,
appropriately, Home Cheese Making (Storey Books, $16.95.)
 Down
to Earth
Region restaurant takes the hands-on approach to cheese
making
At Region restaurant in Hillcrest, the feel is 21st century rustic
but in the kitchen, a back-to-the-roots cooking revolution is bubbling
away. ”I want to make everything from scratch,” says
pastry chef Jack Fisher. “Prosciutto. Aged cheeses.”
Fisher, casual in a sugar-crusted blue canvas apron, t-shirt and
ringing cell phone, was preparing to make fresh mozzarella for the
evening service while calmly instructing Denasio, a cook on loan
from George’s at the Cove, in the finer points of caramel
ice cream and Meyer lemon semifreddo. For a guy who specializes
in the sweetly ethereal, Jack Fisher takes a hands-on approach to
his cooking philosophy.
Fisher makes fresh mozzarella every day, and serves it drizzled
with fruity olive oil on a simple appetizer plate with olives, prosciutto
and crostini. It sells out nightly. At a recent dinner, the creamy/crumbly
texture of a fresh ricotta –also house made- accented a plate
of sautéed greens with fresh pasta.
Why would busy chefs bother making their own fresh cheeses? Fisher
(along with partners Michael Stebner and Allyson Colwell) cite as
their inspiration atelier / restaurants like Artisan, in New York,
and Paul Bertolli’s Oliveto in the Bay Area, where limited-production,
hand-made artisan foods are showcased and the chefs craft, and even
grow, much of what they serve. In the 1970’s and 1980s Chez
Panisse and chef Alice Waters did something similar, re-inventing
a style of simple, hand-made, rustic food that also managed to be
terribly chic. This atelier philosophy has fueled microbrewery beers,
boutique wineries and the long-awaited return of decent bread. And
now, cheese. Because in San Diego, having hand-made local product
means, for the most part, making it yourself.
Fisher’s tender fresh mozzarella and creamy, dreamy ricotta
are both made from off-the shelf cow’s milk. In the mozzarella,
he uses two natural additives, citric acid and lipase powder (see
Resources), which take the place of the natural enzymes that would
occur during the ripening process in fresh, unpasteurized, unrefrigerated
milk that is several hours old. Fat chance of finding that in San
Diego, though Fisher thinks it might be a good idea to park a cow
on the patio as a kind of mascot.
Fisher pulls out a couple of gallons of pasteurized whole milk.
“Any brand will do,” he says, ”as long as it’s
not ultra-pasteurized.” (heat-treated to beyond 180 degrees.)
He empties the milk into a well-used heavy pot, casually stabbing
the bottoms of the milk jugs with a huge knife in order to speed
the glugging milk along, with the air of a man who has poured massive
amounts of dairy products in his day.
Making the mozzarella is surprisingly quick and simple. Cold milk
is combined with the citric acid and lipase and heated over a moderate
flame, while a crushed rennet tablet dissolves slowly in spring
water. At exactly 88 degrees (tested with an accurate instant-read
thermometer) Fisher stirs in the dissolved rennet. A few seconds
later, fueled by heat and the coagulant, the milk suddenly blooms
into clouds of rubbery, pure white curd suspended in whey: newborn
mozzarella. He skims the curd into china bowls, and heads for the
microwave.
This is where the fun begins.( I have to confess that more than
half the fun of being a chef is playing with food all day long.)
Fisher dons latex gloves to protect his hands, works a sprinkling
of fine sea salt into the curd and zaps it for a full minute on
high power. Working quickly, he presses the hot curd into a ball,
squeezing out as much liquid as possible, and folds the curd back
upon itself. The process of heating, squeezing, kneading and folding
is repeated again and again. Each time, the texture of the cheese
changes: from cottage cheesy lumps to rubbery mass to a firm, smooth
ball. While he works, the temperature of the cheese feels like uncomfortably
hot bath water.
After five or six passes through the microwave/kneading process,
the finished cheese is a supple wave of pure white with a smooth,
waxy sheen. Fisher gives it one last fold and drops it into the
bowl; it looks (really) like a gigantic wad of chewing gum.
The finished cheese is divided and shaped into smooth balls with
a practiced twirling motion which Fisher attributes to years of
making sugar swans, and the finished cheese is plopped back into
the whey to cool.
The entire production, takes about 30 minutes and yields about
2 ½ pounds of melt-in-your-mouth perfection, firm yet tender,
with the sweet floral taste of fresh milk. I ask him how else his
fresh mozzarella can be served, but Fisher demurs; he likes his
cheese au naturel. “I’m just waiting for tomato season,”
he says with a grin.
Region's Fresh Mozzarella
Jack Fisher adapted his recipe and technique from Home Cheese
Making by Ricki Carroll, owner of New England Cheesemaking Supply
and muse to a generation of cheese makers (see Resources.) Aspiring
cheese makers are well advised to buy the book for cheese making
basics and invaluable tips. A properly calibrated Taylor (adjustable)
instant-read thermometer is essential for this recipe, since the
rennet is very sensitive.
2 gallons whole pasteurized milk (not ultra-pasteurized)
3 teaspoons citric acid*
Heaping ½ teaspoon Lipase 3 powder*
½ rennet tablet*, crushed and dissolved in ½ cup spring
water
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
*see Resources
Pour cold milk into a three-gallon, heavy bottomed pot. Add citric
acid and lipase powder and stir thoroughly; small lumps will form.
Heat over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the milk reaches
exactly 88 degrees. Stir in the dissolved rennet and keep stirring
as the curds form and the temperature climbs to exactly 105 degrees.
This happens quickly, keep stirring gently. Turn off heat. When
the curds and whey are separated, turn off the heat and skim the
curds with a fine skimmer into two microwave-proof bowls. Reserve
the whey.
Put on latex or rubber gloves. Press as much liquid as possible
out of the curds, draining it off, and work the sea salt well into
the curds. Microwave on high for 60 seconds. Quickly press the curds
down to force out more liquid, and squish and knead the curd into
a rough ball. Microwave again for twenty seconds or a little more,
and repeat the process; knead by flattening out the mass and then
folding it back on top of itself several times.(Fisher worked the
mass of curds in his hands, using both thumbs to flatten it out,
but you could knead it in the bowl or on a counter top.) Repeat
the heating, pressing, draining and kneading process five or six
times without allowing the cheese to cool; the curds must be uncomfortably
hot but still bearable to the touch. The cheese is done when it
is smooth, bouncy and shiny, and the outside stretches into strands
when it is folded.
Transfer whey into a storage container. Form the cheese into balls
of the desired size and drop back into the whey. Cool with a piece
of plastic wrap pressed onto the surface of the whey, and refrigerate
until needed. Bring to room temperature before serving. Keeps 2-3
days, refrigerated, though it is at its best eaten immediately.
Resources:
New England Cheese Making Supply Company
www.cheesemaking.com Or call (413)628-3808
Home Cheese Making, Third Edition by Ricki Carroll, Storey Books
Cooking by Hand, Paul Bertolli, Clarkson Potter
Fresh Goat Cheese Tart with Oven-Roasted
Tomato Petals and Arugula Salad
This recipe, adapted from a classic Julia Child recipe, produces
a very rich, savory cheese tart with a creamy texture set off by
a salad of bracing, peppery arugula and tomatoes warmed in virgin
olive oil. This would be an excellent light lunch or a first course
for a substantial dinner. Makes one 8-inch tart (10-12 slices.)
Filling:
1 cup soft goat’s cheese, fresh (see Overnight Goat Cheese)
or purchased
5 ounces good-quality cream cheese, softened
¼ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 eggs, beaten
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped
1 recipe pie crust
Oven Roasted Tomato Petals (below)
Make pie crust and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Roll out to 1/8th
inch thickness and line an eight-inch tart ring or pie pan with
the dough. Patch any holes with excess dough, and refrigerate for
20 minutes. While the dough is resting, preheat the oven to 375
degrees. Line the dough with a sheet of foil, pressing it gently
into the corners and fill the foil liner with rice or beans. Bake
for 10 minutes, then remove the foil and beans, and bake a further
5 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from the oven.
While the shell is baking, make the filling: In a food processor
combine the goat cheese, cream cheese and softened butter. Pulse
to blend, scraping the sides down often. With the motor running,
add the cream and the eggs, salt, pepper and cayenne. When thoroughly
combined, stir in the fresh thyme. Pour the filling into the pre-baked
pie shell and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until it is gently puffed
and beginning to brown. Cool on a rack; serve at room temperature
with a couple of Tomato Petals and a little pile of Arugula Salad.
Oven Roasted Tomato Petals
4 roma tomatoes
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch kosher salt
Pour boiling water over the tomatoes and let stand one minute.
Peel off the skin and remove the stem. Cut each tomato lengthwise
into quarters and cut away the seedy cores; you will wind up with
16 long, pointed ‘petals.’ Toss the tomatoes with the
olive oil and salt and bake in an ovenproof dish alongside the tart
for five minutes only. Remove from the oven and allow to cool; drizzle
the pan juices over the tomatoes.
Arugula Salad
1 pound arugula, stems removed, washed, spun dry and chilled
Pinch kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 ½ tablespoons good wine vinegar or red wine (such as a
Syrah)
Just before serving, toss the arugula with the olive oil, then
the vinegar or wine. Taste a leaf, and adjust the balance of flavors
with a few drops more oil , vinegar or wine.
Herb and Garlic Cheese Spread
Serve in a bowl surrounded by baguette and crackers. The spread
is very potent when first made, but mellows beautifully in a day
or two.
Makes about 2 cups.
1 pound goat cheese, homemade (see Overnight Fresh Goat Cheese)
or purchased
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons cognac, brandy or armagnac
1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
2 cloves of fresh garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons mixed fresh herbs, finely chopped (thyme, tarragon,
chervil, chives) or 1
teaspoon dried herbes de Provence, ground to a powder
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the cheese, olive oil
and cognac, and process until smooth and creamy. Chop the garlic
to a paste with the salt, and add to the cheese along with the pepper;
process a further minute and taste for seasoning. (People have been
known to add more cognac.) Add the herbs and pulse to blend. Pack
into a container and allow the flavors to mellow for up to three
days.
Sweet Crepes au Fromage Blanc with Fresh
Fruit Sauce
You can call them blintzes if you like; I think Crepes au Fromage
Blanc is much more elegant. If you have never made crepes before,
you’ll be amazed at how easy and fast they are to crank out,
and infinitely tastier than anything you can buy. Make and fill
a day ahead and pop into the oven at the last minute for brunch
or dessert. Makes 18-20 filled crepes.
1 recipe Crepes (below)
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 1/2 cups Basic Fresh Cheese (recipe follows)
3 ounces good quality Cream Cheese
1/3 cup white sugar
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or ½ teaspoon lemon or orange
zest
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon salt
1 egg plus 1 egg yolk
Optional: ½ cup Golden Raisins soaked in hot water, dark
rum or Grand Marnier
Powdered sugar
Make the crepe batter: Combine 1 cup water, 1
cup milk, 2 cups of flour and four eggs in a blender jar. Blend
on high speed for one minute. Add ¼ teaspoon of salt and
the melted butter. Scrape down the sides with a spatula and blend
again for 30 seconds. Chill for at least 1 hour. (The batter should
be the consistency of light cream; add a small amount of water to
thin if necessary.)
To cook the crepes: Choose an eight-inch non-stick
pan and heat over medium high heat until a drop of water dances
in the pan. Brush with a very small amount of melted butter. Use
a half-filled ¼ cup measure to pour the batter into the pan;
you will need 2- 3 tablespoons per crepe, depending on the thickness
of the batter. Pour the batter into the hot pan and quickly swirl
the pan to coat the bottom. Return to the heat. When the edges are
lightly browned and the crepe is puffing, use a rubber spatula to
lift the edge; quickly grab it and turn it over. Cook for a minute
more, then slide onto a plate. Continue until all the batter is
used up. You will want to adjust the heat so the crepe cooks quickly;
if the pan is smoking, it is too hot. Brush with a very small amount
of butter every few crepes.
Make the filling: In a food processor combine
the ricotta and cream cheese and process until well combined, scraping
down the sides and corners with a spatula. Add the sugar, juice
or zest, vanilla and salt and process until well mixed; add the
eggs with the motor running. If you are using the optional raisins,
drain well, pat dry and stir into the filling mixture with a spoon.
Place two heaping tablespoons (about an eighth of a cup) of filling
in the middle of each crepe and either roll into a cylinder, with
the ends tucked neatly under, or fold the four sides over to make
a square. Set into a buttered baking dish, barely touching, and
bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes. Dust with powdered sugar and
serve hot with Fresh Fruit Sauce.
Fresh Fruit Sauce
1 pint raspberries, sliced strawberries or blackberries (fresh
or frozen)
¼ cup to ½ cup powdered sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Combine the fruit, the smaller amount of powdered sugar and the
lemon juice in a non-reactive bowl. Let stand, covered, for one
hour. Taste and add more sugar if necessary to sweeten or thicken
the sauce.
Yogurt Cheese with Lemon, Mint, Olive Oil
and Olives
Called labna, fresh yogurt cheese is a common mezze or snack throughout
the Middle East, Greece and Turkey. It is often presented with warm
pita bread and a bowl of green or black Mediterranean olives. Make
your own yogurt for this, or buy a good quality whole-milk yogurt
such as Pavels’ or Strauss. Makes about 20 one-inch balls.
1 32-ounce container plain Balkan style yogurt (not low-fat)
Juice and fine zest of 1 lemon
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine all ingredients. Pour the mixture into a colander lined
with several layers of cheesecloth. Tie the corners of the cheesecloth
firmly to make a bag. Suspend the bag from a dowel or spoon handle
over a bowl to catch drips. Let the yogurt drain for 48 hours, refrigerated.
Roll the labna into small balls, or spread on a plate and drizzle
generously with good extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with bread or
pitas for dipping.
Grilled Eggplant ‘Cannelloni’
with Sundried Tomato Sauce
Pasta-less rolls of thinly sliced eggplant filled with light,
tender fresh ricotta cheese, fresh spinach and a little nutty Parmesan.
Eggplant loves being grilled; it develops a wonderful smoky taste
and chic grill marks, while using a fraction of the oil it would
take to fry it. If you don’t have a grill, cook the eggplant
under a very hot broiler. Richly flavored sun dried tomatoes bring
the taste of summer to a midwinter marinara. Serves 8.
For the Eggplant Cannelloni
2 large eggplants
1/3 good olive oil
Kosher salt
Filling
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/3 cup onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic finely chopped
1 bunch spinach, stemmed, washed and roughly chopped
2 cups Basic Fresh Cheese or ricotta cheese (12 ounces)
2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
Scant 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (divided use)
Wash and dry the eggplants. Slice off the leafy top and a sliver
of the round bottom, so it stands without rocking. Use a sharp knife
to carefully cut the eggplants from top to bottom into even slices,
about a quarter of an inch thick. Preheat the grill. Lightly brush
the slices with olive oil on both sides and grill over a hot fire,
turning once, until the surfaces are well-browned and the eggplant
is quite soft, but not falling apart. Salt very lightly and stack
until ready to use. (Can be made ahead.)
For the filling: Heat the oil in a frying pan
and cook the onion and garlic over medium heat until soft, but not
brown. Add the spinach, increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring,
until it is wilted and the pan is dry. Remove from the heat. In
a bowl thoroughly combine the ricotta, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg
and half of the parmesan cheese; a potato masher is a good tool
for this job. When the cheese mixture is well-combined, add the
cooled spinach and stir together.
To fill the Cannelloni: place a heaping spoonful of the filling
on the smaller end of an eggplant slice, and roll up firmly. Set
the rolls in an oiled baking dish, tucked close together. Spoon
Sun Dried Tomato Sauce generously over the dish, sprinkle with the
remaining parmesan and bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes, or
until very hot. Serve with more of the sauce.
Sun Dried Tomato Sauce
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons very finely chopped onion
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup sun dried tomatoes
1 ½ cups water
1/8 teaspoon salt (or to taste)
1/8 teaspoon sugar
14-ounce can good quality plum tomatoes in juice
2 sprigs fresh basil, stemmed and chopped
Heat the oil and cook the onions and garlic until soft, but not
brown. Add the water and sundried tomatoes, salt and sugar and simmer
for 15 minutes, or until the tomatoes are very soft. Add the canned
tomatoes and simmer a further 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly
and pulse the sauce in a food processor or blender until fairly
smooth, or pass through a food mill. The sauce can be served as
is, or forced through a coarse sieve. Taste for salt. Stir in the
basil immediately before serving.
Café Au Lait Mascarpone Gelato
Sinfully rich; even better with dark chocolate sauce drizzled
over, and some chopped nuts on top. Serves 8.
2 cups heavy cream
3 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
1 ½ cups mascarpone cheese, beaten
½ cup triple-strength espresso Beat the egg yolks and sugar together until the sugar is dissolved.
Heat the cream until bubbles form around the edge; remove from heat.
Whisk the cream into the yolks, then cook in a double-boiler (or
a bowl set over a pan of simmering water) until the foam disappears
and the mixture has thickened slightly. Do not boil. Stir in the
espresso and chill completely. When chilled, whip in the mascarpone
and freeze according to machine directions. Transfer to an airtight
container and freeze until hard. Let soften slightly before serving. |
