|
Fields of purple tasseled spikes of lavender in bloom are wonderful
to see. And it’s a bit of heaven to breathe in the clean,
sharply pungent scent that rises from a single, sun-warmed plant.
There’s always a place in my garden for lavender. I rub a
little between my fingers as I pass by, or put a flower spike in
my car and enjoy it for days.
Whether inhaled or ingested, lavender heals, transforms and relaxes,
inducing a sense of tranquility and peace. In fact, lavender tea
was used by England’s Queen Elizabeth 1 to treat her Armada-sized
migraines.
Humans have long known the soothing qualities, penetrating scent
and infection-fighting powers of this sweetest of herbs. Known as
spikenard in biblical times, lavender probably moved around the
eastern Mediterranean with Phoenician and Arab traders. It came
in time to the ancient Greeks, and thence, like all things, to the
Romans, who took it with them to the farthest reaches of their Empire.
Lavender’s botanical name lavendula is based on the Latin
word lavar: to wash, clean, refresh and renew. In times past, laundry
(derived from the same Latin root) was aired outdoors on great swathes
of lavender plants. Lavender made the Dark Ages smell better, and
the Renaissance, and reached its peak of popularity during the late
Victorian era. Today lavender is largely used for its aromatic properties,
transformed into infusions and essential oils, potpourri and candles,
dream pillows and bath scents.
As a culinary herb, lavender has an equally long history, particularly
around its native Mediterranean where it is beloved by bees, butterflies
and cooks alike. The venerable mixture known as herbes de Provence
carries the very essence of the herb-covered sunny hills and cool
pine forests of southern France. While Provence is still the lavender
(and perfume) capital of the world, fine lavender is grown in this
country—some right here in Valley Center (see Resources.)
Lavender, like all herbs, offers both medicinal qualities and
wonderful flavor. Over the centuries, it has found its way into
sweets and breads, marinades and spice rubs, teas and jellies, ice
creams and preserves. The flavor of lavender is not remotely like
a sweet perfume; it tastes like something spiky and purple should
taste – sharp, even slightly metallic, with a penetrating
herbal pungency similar to rosemary, with which it is often combined.
Lavender can be overpowering by itself. It plays better as part
of a choir of tastes, combining nicely with citrus, mint, berries,
ginger, figs and vanilla, or other strong Mediterranean herbs such
as marjoram, oregano and fennel. Start with a small amount and increase
to your taste. Depending, of course, on the size of the Armada on
your personal horizon.
Culinary Lavender
Both English lavender (L. augustifolia) and french lavender (
L. provence) work well with food. The french variety is not as aromatic,
but has a pronounced herbal taste.
Almost all recipes begin by infusing lavender into a liquid—water,
cream, honey, or wine. Infusions can be made with dried or fresh
lavender. The magic proportion seems to be 1 tablespoon of dried
flower buds and 2 tablespoons of fresh to each cup of liquid. To
infuse, heat the lavender buds in the liquid until just below the
boiling boil, then cover and set aside to infuse. Infusion can take
anywhere from 15 minutes to overnight, depending on how strong you
want the flavor to be. Anything to be served cold should be stronger,
since cold dulls the flavors. Dairy products should infuse in the
refrigerator.
Another way to introduce a lavender flavor to your cooking is
to use the Lavender Sugar in tea or in sweet recipes. If you are
purchasing dried lavender, it should be powerfully scented and clearly
marked as culinary or organic lavender; this ensures it is safe
to eat. If you’re growing your own, pick the unsprayed flower
buds early in the day and strip off the flower buds, then gently
shake the buds in a coarse sieve to remove bits of calyx and leaves.
Rinse gently, drain thoroughly and spread out on paper towels to
dry.
Lavender Resources
Lavender is widely grown in the United States. Close to home in
San Diego County, The Lavender Fields farm in Valley Center grows
certified organic French and English lavender for use in aromatherapy
(and culinary therapy!) The Sequim-Dungeness Valley in Washington
has seven lavender farms and hosts a Lavender Festival every July.
www.lavenderfestival.com
www.thelavenderfields.com
or call (888)407-1489
Recipes
Lavender Sugar
A great way to play with lavender flavor in tea, in baking recipes,
or when making custards, crème brulee or sweetened whipped
cream. Nice sprinkled on top of scones fresh from the oven.
½ cup dried culinary or organic lavender flowers
1 ½ cups granulated white sugar
Grind the flowers and sugar together in a blender or clean spice
grinder. Let stand covered 24 hours. Strain through a sieve.
Frozen Lavender Lemonade with Fresh Mint
On a hot sunny day, make good use of your herb garden with this
refreshing iced drink. Serves 6
1 cup sugar
2 ½ cups water
2 heaping tablespoons dried lavender (1/2 cup fresh)
¼ cup fresh mint leaves (or 2 teaspoons dried mint)
1 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice, preferably very sour
3 cups crushed ice or ice cubes
3 teaspoons meringue powder or 1 egg white (optional)
6 mint leaves, plus more for garnish, if desired.
Boil water and sugar until dissolved. Add lavender and quarter-cup
of mint leaves. Cover and remove from heat. Let stand at least 3
hours or overnight. Strain and chill. Add lemon juice.
In a powerful blender combine the lemon base, ice, mint and meringue
powder or egg white. Blend on high until frothy and thick. Serve
immediately.
Wine Jelly with Lavender
Here’s another recipe that combines lemon and lavender,
but this one is a bit more sophisticated. Wine jellies are a proper
old-fashioned treat, and with the use of liquid pectin, easy to
make. How would I eat this? Let me count the ways: a dab with goat
cheese or cream cheese on toasted brioche, a spoonful with pound
cake or angel food cake, or straight from the jar.
1 ¾ cups sweet Riesling wine or rose wine
1 teaspoon dried lavender flowers or 1 tablespoon fresh flower buds
All the yellow peel from 1 large lemon, with as little white pith
as possible
3 cups sugar
1 pouch (3 ounces) liquid pectin
Infuse the wine: Combine the wine, lavender flowers, sugar and
lemon peel, and gently heat until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Remove from heat, cover and allow to infuse for at least 3 hours
or overnight.. Line a sieve with a doubled piece of cheesecloth
and strain.
Before beginning, read up on canning techniques and sterilize
jars, rings and lids.
Make the jelly: Combine the infused wine and
sugar in a large saucepan. Stir in the sugar and stir over gentle
heat until the sugar is dissolved. Bring the mixture to a rolling
boil that cannot be stirred down. Add the pectin all at once and
allow to boil without stirring for exactly one minute. Remove from
heat, let stand five minutes, and remove any foam. Ladle into sterilized
jars and top with sterilized lids and rings. Let stand until the
lids seal. (Any jars that fail to seal must be refrigerated and
used within one week.)
Use within six months.
Lavender Honey Ice Cream
Rich and creamy, with a haunting suggestion of lavender. I prefer
to make this not too sweet, but you can add more honey if you like.
It’s wonderful alone, or served melting atop a warm fruit
cobbler. Makes about one quart.
2 1/2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup to ¾ cup honey
2 tablespoons dried lavender flowers
4 large egg yolks
¼ teaspoon real vanilla extract
Combine milk, cream, honey and lavender flowers in a 1-quart heavy
saucepan, and heat gently until bubbles form around the edges, but
do not boil. Meanwhile beat the egg yolks until creamy and light.
Pour a quarter-cup of the hot milk onto the egg yolks and beat well,
then add the rest of the milk slowly, whisking all the while. Return
to heat and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the foam
disappears and the custard thickens-again, do not allow to boil.
Cool, then refrigerate overnight without straining. Next day, strain
the cold mixture. Add the vanilla extract and freeze according to
machine directions.
Grilled Lamb Leg with Herbes de Provence
This is a classic combination of powerful herbs. Make small quantities;
any leftovers will keep for several months in a tightly sealed jar,
away from heat and sunlight. Use on chicken, beef, lamb, goat cheese,
olives, salad dressings or infused into extra-virgin olive oil.
For the Lamb Leg:
1 boned leg of lamb
3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into long slivers
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons crushed black peppercorns
2 teaspoons salt
3 teaspoons Herbes de Provence spice mix (recipe follows)
Herbes de Provence:
1 tablespoon dried organic (culinary) lavender
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 tablespoon dried tangerine peel,* ground to a powder
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon dried marjoram
1 tablespoon dried rosemary
1 tablespoon dried savory
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Use top-quality dried herbs. Combine in a bowl and mix well, then
rub through a coarse sieve or pulse several times in a food processor
Preheat a grill to medium-hot. Remove netting from lamb leg and
open out. Use a sharp knife to trim away excess fat and shiny silverskin
from all sides of the lamb. Poke the lamb with the tip of the knife,
making one-inch holes inside and out, and insert a sliver of garlic
into each hole. Brush the lamb with the olive oil inside and out.
Sprinkle all over with the salt, pepper and 3 or 4 tablespoons of
the herbes de Provence mix. Rub the seasonings into the meat. Let
stand 20 minutes.
Open out the lamb leg and grill the lamb on all sides over the
fire, then push coals to one side (or turn off one side of grill
and reduce heat to medium) Place lamb on cool side of grill, cover,
and cook to desired doneness (125 degrees for rare, 140 degrees
for medium.) Allow to rest 20 minutes before carving. *Optional; available at Asian supermarkets |
Lavender
